Six Months in Sulawesi – From Makassar to Manado: A Journey Across Indonesia’s Wildest Island

Six months, one island, endless discovery. Six Months in Sulawesi chronicles an extraordinary overland and underwater journey across one of Indonesia’s most untamed and culturally rich islands. From the bustling port of Makassar in the south to the volcanic ridges of Manado in the north, this expedition reveals the mystery, diversity, and sheer wonder of Sulawesi through landscapes and traditions few travelers ever witness.

The journey begins in the dramatic karst valleys of Maros, where vast limestone cliffs rise from emerald wetlands. Joined by @KristianHansen, we ventured deep into the caves of Leang Tedongnge, home to the oldest known cave art in the world—a haunting reminder of humanity’s earliest creativity.

From there, the trail climbs into the highlands of Toraja, a place where life and death coexist in elaborate harmony. Among ancestral houses and rice terraces, I witnessed the Ma’nene ritual, where families exhume and honor their ancestors, followed by the grand funerary ceremonies of Rambu Solo. These ancient customs, preserved for centuries, reflect a worldview entirely their own.

The route then weaves through the misty valleys of Besoa and Bada near Poso, where mysterious megalithic statues stand watch over empty fields, their carved faces staring silently across the ages like lost cousins of Easter Island’s moai.

After the highlands, the road leads to the coast of Ampana and a ferry across the Tomini Gulf to the Togean Islands—a secluded archipelago of coral reefs, hidden lagoons, and volcanic peaks. Here, I explored a jellyfish lake, an eerie WWII airplane wreck beneath turquoise waters, and the thriving marine world of Una Una, an active volcano that still hums with life both above and below the surface.

Crossing the sea once more to Gorontalo, the adventure turned wilder. I tracked the elusive babirusa, Sulawesi’s bizarre tusked pig, through the Nantu Forest, then dived among the surreal sponges of Olele—unique coral forms seen nowhere else on Earth. Encounters with gentle whale sharks brought the kind of awe that quiets every word.

The final leg through North Sulawesi was a test of endurance and wonder. Riding solo into the Minahasa highlands, I climbed the volcanoes of Soputan, Lokon, and Empung, watched the sun rise over Lake Tondano, and explored Tomohon’s hidden waterfalls. In Tangkoko National Park, I met the black-crested macaque, the tiny nocturnal tarsier, and the majestic hornbill—creatures that seem to exist on the edges of myth.

The journey ended beneath the waves again, diving in the legendary Lembeh Strait and Bunaken Island. Lembeh revealed an alien world of mimic and blue-ringed octopuses, strange crustaceans, and rare macro life. Bunaken, with its sheer coral walls and endless turtles, closed the circle—a final reminder that Sulawesi’s magic runs deep, both on land and under the sea.

Six Months in Sulawesi is more than a travel chronicle. It’s a tribute to an island that defies convention, a living mosaic of cultures, landscapes, and species that survive on their own terms. From ancient art to active volcanoes, from sacred rituals to silent reefs, Sulawesi demands to be explored, not just seen.